Sunday, February 19, 2012

London Walk 2

Trafalgar Square, with the Neslon Column monument in the background. Horatio Neslon is Britain's most famous naval hero, killed in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. The British Royal Navy took on the combined fleets of the French Navy and the Spanish Navy. 27 British ships against 33 French and Spanish ships. Ships lost: France & Spain - 22, Britain - 0. Unbelievable.

Coincidentally, the text on Robin's shirt reads "Fortune Favors The Bold." The shirt is by Forged Clothing, designed by her son Ryan, a Navy Seal. Forged Clothing was founded by Ryan and another Navy Seal. 

To get to The Inner Temple (famous, but made even more famous by The Da Vinci Code) go through the entrance on the right for a short distance. The Inner Temple takes its name from the Knights Templar. There are effigies (stone knights laying on the floor, burial-like) of Templar Knights inside. The Inner Temple dates back to around the 1200s and was the new location for the Knights Templar.

The George pub.

Ye Olde Cock Tavern. Just barely squeezed it in there. 

A monument in the middle of the street is much more common here than some places, such as Santa Fe for instance. This monument on Fleet Street marks the location of a previous "bar" (a stone gateway barrier) that marked the division between East and West (London and Westminster). At this point Fleet Street becomes The Strand. Even though it's now an open street, the Queen still stops here momentarily (and symbolically) when her entourage happens to come down this street. Nice wyvern on top.

Robin goes on a self-guided tour to inspect the plaque on the monument.

Always in research mode.

"I hope you will be enjoy stay from our hotel..."

So begins the letter of confirmation from the owner of the Istanbul hotel that we just booked for a three night stay, starting February 25th.

The hotel was recommended by Jay, the Turkish exchange student who lived with us in 2000, and now lives in Istanbul, his home town. And he knows the people at this hotel. It looks like a great boutique hotel, in the old part of the city, close to everything we want to see. Our room is on the terrace with views of both the Blue Mosque and the Marmara Sea.

The hotel owner concludes the confirmation letter with "We will be drink something together at the roof terrace."

No way we're missing out on an offer like that. I don't know about Robin, but I personally have never had an opportunity to be drink something together on the roof of a hotel, with the hotel owner... in freakin' Istanbul.

Robin wrote back to ask the owner if we can pay cash for the room, in British pounds. He responded with "Sure, you can pay in GBP. I love Money. Doesn't problem for me."

I love this place already.

I have a funny feeling... that three nights in Istanbul is not going to be enough.

The Blue Mosque from (I assume) the hotel.

The Marmara Sea from (I think) the roof terrace of the hotel.

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Saturday Night on the Couch

It's a two-iPad, two-iPhone, two-laptop night. 

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Gloomy charm. That's how Wikipedia described this pub. Robin, Lynn, and I agree. We've never found gloom so charming. It's assumed that Samuel Johnson must have frequented Cheshire Cheese, since it's just a minute or two walk away.

There's a restaurant room across the hall from the bar, but it's slower so we ordered food and ciders from the bar. The food was delicious (Cottage Pie and two Steak & Ale Pies).

We're definitely going back for some more gloomy charm and food before this trip is over.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, rebuilt in 1667, after the Great Fire. So this place is pretty new. The Templar Knights wouldn't even recognize this new place, I suppose.

A plaque next to the front door lists all 15 Sovereigns that have come and gone during the Cheshire Cheese's reign. I'll bet lots of Kings heard about this place and wanted to go there, but the Queen wouldn't let him.

This place is a warren of rooms, stairs, and hallways. I found three bars, don't know if I found them all. This is first bar you find when you come in. It's the best one because its the gloomiest.

Noted designers, writers, and scholars hang out here. It's pretty dark in here, but I think I see all three on the right. 

A gloomy wall next to our gloomy table.

Gloomy cider on our gloomy table. I mean that in a good way.

A room upstairs. Looks like a popular place, if you're into light and un-gloomy stuff like that.

Go up some stairs, around the corner, then down some other stairs, and you're at this bar. 

Samuel Johnson's House

Samuel Johnson wrote A Dictionary of the English Language (published in 1755).

He was "arguably the most distinguished man of letters in English history." Among his many literary accomplishments, he wrote an influential annotated edition of Shakespeare's plays.

He had six scribes working for him. He thought it would take three years. It took nine years. Two of the scribes died before it was finished. He lived in this house while he worked on the project, and continued to live here until he died in 1784.

We spent a couple of hours visiting each room in the 4-story house. The man at the entrance desk said everything was 70% original, with some necessary restoration work. All the floors, for example, have been replaced with pine wood planks from America. Of course, in London when they say it was restored, they might mean four hundred years ago.

Lord Chesterfield had promised to be Johnson's patron, helping him with expenses for the dictionary project, but never did anything for Johnson. Near the completion of the project, after 9 years of hardship, Chesterfield attempted to assert himself into the picture. Johnson's reply is one of the most famous of his letters (shown in part, below):

Seven years, my lord, have now passed, since I waited in your outward rooms, or was repulsed from your door; during which time I have been pushing on my work through difficulties, of which it is useless to complain, and have brought it, at last, to the verge of publication, without one act of assistance, one word of encouragement, or one smile of favour. Such treatment I did not expect, for I never had a patron before.
Is not a patron my lord, one who looks with unconcern on a man struggling for life in the water, and, when he has reached ground, encumbers him with help.

Pretty eloquent for a "F*** You" letter. I love this guy.

I don't know who Lord Chesterfield was, but I'm pretty sure he's most famous now for being a jerk.

The Dr. Johnson house is in the corner of Gough Square, an enclosed courtyard space surrounded by other buildings that was here back in the day. Many well-known literary types came here to visit Dr. Johnson. One of his best friends was David Garrick, a famous writer, actor, and theater producer. He's also credited with reviving Shakespeare plays and making them popular.

Number 17 Gough Square. Greatness happened here. And I'm just talking about the evening we were there. After meeting our friend Lynn for dinner at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (a two-minute walk away at most), we returned here to attend a play reading, performed on the 4th floor, written by Samuel Johnson himself. 

This is acutally the side door that's used for visitors during the day. Later, when we returned for the reading, we used the front door. Just sayin'.

Looking down the stairs from the fourth floor, where the work was done. The stairs continue down to a basement floor where the kitchen was originally. That probably cut down on trips to the kitchen during the workday. 

A couple of Johnson's dictionaries are available to browse.

The fourth floor where Johnson and his scribes worked. They probably had long tables to spread hand-written entries across. Johnson based his estimate of time he would need to complete the dictionary (3 years) on the fact that a French dictionary had been completed in 12 years. So he figured an Englishman could do whatever the French could do in one-fourth the time. Faulty logic, as it turned out, but hey, maybe his scribes were goofing off while the very large Dr. Johnson was climbing four flights of stairs. 

A big house. Far beyond Dr. Johnson's means. The King helped finance his stay there. But just for three years. There's a lesson here for all of us. Always pad your estimate. Especially if you have scribes doing a lot of the work.

Charming.

The stairs are in the middle of the house. I can see Dr. Johnson carrying the last of the manuscripts down the stairs, muttering "Last damned dictionary I'm ever doing!"

View from one of the windows, looking out to the corner of Gough Square.

The stage is set and the audience is filled with anticipation. That's the Ghost of Samuel Johnson sitting between Robin and Lynn.

At 6:30 that evening we returned with our friend Lynn to Dr. Johnson's house for the play reading, Clandestine Marriage, on the fourth floor. The play, a comedy, was very good. And the actors were excellent, perfectly cast, we thought. A very memorable evening. How about that front-row seating, eh? And wine. Brilliant!

Friday, February 17, 2012

London Walk

Our Thursday outing in London (galleries, Dr. Johnson's house, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese) required a lot of walking, but fortunately we'd planned the day so that everything was within a reasonable distance.

The walk gave us a chance to see some street sights that we would miss in the Underground.

On the walk from the Saatchi Gallery to the National Portrait Gallery we passed Buckingham Palace. It's going to be long time before anyone here forgets Queen Victoria (above).

We walked for a while down Fleet Street, a historic area for newspapers and publishers. Love the mosaic message on the side of this building.

Kids at Trafalgar Square, where the National Gallery is located (and the National Portrait Gallery).

No idea what this building is, but I'm impressed, even if it is one of the smaller ancient buildings we've passed.

Not many adobe buildings here. Stone seems more popular. Probably a good idea.

Intriguing poster, but we didn't have time to see the exhibit at The National Gallery. There's way too much to see here.

Looks kinda windy in that store. 

More photos in the next article, London Walk 2.

Saatchi Gallery

Most of yesterday's plans ended up on the "done" list, but not all. When we arrived at the National Portrait Gallery for the Lucian Freud painting exhibit, around 3:00 pm, we discovered they were selling tickets for a 5:00 entrance time. Because we had plans to go to Samuel Johnson's house at 3:30, then meet friend Lynn at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese at 5:30, we had to postpone the Freud visit. But we've already bought online tickets for 10:30 am on January 20th.

After spending time today going through yesterday's photos, I've divided them into several different articles: Saatchi Gallery, London Walk, Samuel Johnson's House, and Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.

The Saatchi Gallery is on the cutting edge of modern art. Also the cutting edge of crappy art, but I'm not referring to the piece here, which is one of the more beautiful pieces currently being exhibited.

An unidentified woman is mesmerized by the greatness of the art, or maybe just by the size of it. Even though I sound cynical, I actually like this piece. Just needs to be a tiny bit larger.

This exhibit is part of their permanent collection. A room half full of oil. In the museum's previous location, the room's windows were lower and the oil covered the bottom half of the windows. I guess they spilled too much oil when they moved to their new location.

This looks like I'm standing in front of a painting, but Robin just happened to take my picture as I was having a brilliant idea.

A bored man or art? At the Saatchi it's difficult to know.

High praise to Zhivago for art-name honesty.  

What Michelangelo's nightmares must have been like.

Plumbing project or art? Art.

This is why I never work this large.

Some paintings just don't work well in a small room.

Could be just a teeny bit larger. Otherwise, very nice.

When possible, put larger and smaller paintings in the same room.

Yes, lady, it's weird.

One of the Saatchi exhibits was a collection of covers and photos from the past 50 years of The Sunday Times Magazine. Lots of stunning photos in large format, backlit frames. Above, Boy George.  

Powerful photos.

One of the featured photos is a bingo game in Roswell, New Mexico. I've been there and this is just an ordinary everyday Roswell scene. Come on guys, just use the special stuff.

Another piece of art I like. 

Who knew? Some of the best artists at the Saatchi are working in the gallery cafe. Artsy and tasty.