Friday, March 23, 2012

Walking Around

Our walk from Trafalgar Square took us past some big clock tower.   

Double-tailed mermaid at Trafalgar Square. The National Gallery is here, and also the National Portrait Gallery. 

The Pinter Theatre. We went to see Absent Friends, a play by Alan Ackbourn. Interesting, kinda boring. Shoulda gone to Mama Mia.

The Ireland gang spotted in Trafalgar Square.

You know you're going to run across some street musicians if you go in the Underground or a bridge tunnel. 

Trafalgar Square version of a park bench.

The Nelson Monument and King Charles I on a horse. The Charles statue was placed there in 1678.

So many monuments everywhere.

Tuesday evening, after leaving the theatre and making our way to Piccadilly Station, we encountered a break dancing performance.

At a park near the Tower of London, a dog chases his ball. OK, now I'm getting home sick.

Running Around London

Monday afternoon, after 4 nights in Ireland, we flew back to London. Originally the plan was for Jamie and Carla to stay at the St. Pancras Hotel for two nights, and we had reservations to join them at St. Pancras for the second night, after spending Monday night at our apartment in Uxbridge. Plan B: go to St. Pancras with them for both nights. That was much better, especially since we had four tickets for a 10:30 am entry to the Lucian Freud exhibit Tuesday morning at the National Portrait Gallery.

The Freud exhibit was truly amazing. He died last year at age 88. His early paintings were very different in style from the later ones, but all were brilliant. Many of the paintings were very large, including the unfinished painting on which applied his last brush stroke before he died, painting a dog's ear. The thing I found fascinating was that the dog, half finished at most, didn't have any sketch lines of any sort to serve as a guide as to where to paint or to show the general position of the body. With over 100 paintings in the exhibit, we had to rush to see it all, since we had lots of other things on the day's agenda.  

The eastern coast of Ireland drifts by as we fly towards London.

I guess we got out of Ireland just in time, before we started looking like tourists. 

The St. Pancras Hotel is located next door to the St. Pancras train station and the King's Cross tube station. Go out the side door of the Booking Office restaurant and you're standing in the train station.

Jamie and Carla relax in the lobby of the St. Pancras Hotel. This place was an old train station and hotel slated to be demolished. It was rescued and renovated thanks to the efforts of Sir John Betjeman, the Poet Laureate of England.

The train station is more like an upscale mall with shops and restaurants. Tuesday morning, before heading out to the Lucian Freud exhibit we stopped at a French cafe in the train station for breakfast.

Carla initiates a book conversation with a Tube reader.

Buying a snack on the Millennium Bridge, a pedestrian bridge that crosses over the Thames, St. Paul's Cathedral in the background. 

A shady looking character watches Carla. 

The Tube maps are starting to make sense.

Robin teaching Underground Navigation 101. Her students paid close attention, and that turned out to be really good the next day when we put them on the wrong train to Heathrow. Oops.

St. Paul's. Millennium Bridge. Jamie. Carla.

On the north bank of the Thames, near the Millennium Bridge, is an office building named Baynard Place. It stands on the site of Baynard Castle that burned down, owned by Mary Sidney. Interestingly, this is a brilliant sculpture based on a "Shakespeare" quote called The Seven Ages of Man. The quote is chiseled in a beautiful spiral design around the base of the column. And it's on Mary Sidney's former property. Weird.

Even more interestingly, the sculpture is by Richard Kindersley, who gave Robin a stone-cutting lesson in his studio, then turned his studio over to her to practice in for an entire day, several years ago. A great artist, his work can be found all over London and the UK.

If you want to just ride the escalator, stand to the right. That leaves room on the left for people who are in a hurry or just can't tolerate wasting time standing still. Yes, that's Robin up there on the left.
  
I added Carla (right) to my Tube Feet photo collection.

Gobnait: Woman of the Bees

There are many ancient, sacred wells in Ireland. The wells were originally of Celtic origin, but were later assimilated into the Christian religion. On the way to the airport we stopped for gas in Ballyvourney and got directions to Gobnait's Well, tucked away on a small, quiet road with an old church, abbey ruins, and a cemetery. 

Gobnait (of the 6th century) kept the plague out of Ballyvourney by designating it consecrated ground. She had a special relationship with honey bees and used honey to treat illness and wounds. Her name is the Irish equivalent of the Hebrew name Deborah, which means "honey bee." Bees were part of ancient Irish laws called the Bech Bretha (Bee Judgements). 

Gobnait was born in County Clare, but "fled" from there for some reason (honey bees perhaps?) to the Aran Islands. She encountered an angel who told her to go on a journey and stop when she came upon nine white deer. She journeyed across southern Ireland, found three white deer and followed them to Ballymakeera, found six more white deer there, then carried on to Ballyvourney and, sure enough, found nine white deer. Why didn't the angel just say "Go to Ballyvourney"? Jeez louise.

Gobnait (aka Deborah) founded a women's community. Ballyvourney is still a popular pilgrimage site, especially on February 11, Gobnait Pattern Day (Pattern Day is a special day when large crowds assemble).

Fortunately, it's not Gobnait Pattern Day, which makes for a nicer visit and uncluttered photos.

Deborah's Well is on a hill above the church grounds, just out of view in the bottom section of the top photo. Notice the tea cups that are available for sampling the water. Carla and Robin took a sip, then buzzed around the cemetery. 

The trees around the well continue the ubiquitous green color scheme very nicely.

These are the ruins of a famine porridge house, where I assume starving people came for food during the Irish Potato Famine.

Inscription: 1846 - 1848 Famine Porridge House.

The church and cemetery are still being used.

Jamie and I walked down the road for more photos. He snapped while I tapped (using an iPhone, y'know).

Peace. Quiet. Beauty. Serenity. Might want to consider a Starbucks with Wi-Fi, however. 

Inside the roofless abbey is a nice spot for more burial plots. The mat of lush green grasses was so thick and spongy that it felt like walking on thick foam rubber. That's pretty much what I was going for in our front yard in Santa Fe. After losing all three blades of grass I gave up and covered the yard with stone pavers.

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Leaving Killarney

A final breakfast at Murphy's and we're ready to drive back to the Cork airport so we can fly back to spend a couple of days in London with Jamie and Carla before they return home to Kentucky.

But first we stop in a local shop, buy some Irish wool stuff, and an old-timer tells us there's an ancient sacred well, St. Mary's Well, just a block or two away. We find it in an alley between two buildings. 

If this well has been a place of pilgrimage since 1302, it's probably been known for a lot longer than that.

Ancient wells get a lot of love from these two.

Driving to Cork we pass through the village of Macroom (which has a castle in the middle of town) and decide to look for a place to eat lunch before we get to the airport. I see a parking spot and say "park here." Vaughan's Cafe is right in front of us so we decide to give it a try.

The castle from the cafe's window. 

According to Peggy (below), the castle was the first thing built in Macroom, then everything else was built around it later. In recent years all but the exterior wall was torn down for safety.

The best and freshest scones I've ever had.

Soup and sandwiches, please. They had just finished serving a bus load of musicians from Philadelphia.

Peggy is our friendly and helpful host. If she made the scones, she's also a genius. The egg-mayo sandwiches were fabulous too. Take my word for it, if you're ever passing through Macroom, stop here at Vaughan's Cafe. Great atmosphere. Great food. Love it.

Exactly the kind of Irish dining experience I hoped for when we planned this trip.

Jamie, Carla, and Robin socialize while I snap away. Or as we iPhone photographers say, "tap away." 

Still lots more to come...

Skellig Sunset

As we continued along the roads that make up the Ring of Skellig, we caught another glimpse of the Skellig islands. 

Eventually we left the main road and down a steep hill, past a small village to a concrete pier in an inlet, and came upon a nice view of the two islands, which appear overlapping from this view point.  


Robin contemplates the Irish Skelligness of it all.

A mysterious figure descends the steps at the end of the pier. 

Robin and Carla enjoy a unique Irish sunset.